There’s a smooth stretch of blacktop on the road to Warngau. You hear nothing here: No cars, no trams, no jackhammers. Just the wind and the rhythmic, clicking sound of a bike rolling along. Here, somewhere between Munich and Lake Tegernsee, I knew that my very own Entschleunigung getaway was officially underway.
My trip had started a few hours earlier in the hustle and bustle of Munich. Savoring my first day off in more than seven months, I took my second crack at the Via Bavarica Tyrolensis bike trail, a picturesque but challenging 160-kilometer ride that runs from Munich through the northern edge of the Alps to Jenbach in Austria. But there was one difference — this time, I was going to ride the whole thing, all the way to Austria.
Going to extremes
People often ask me why I run marathons or go on long bike rides to wind down. “Why don’t you just grab a book and lie on the beach like normal people do,” they want to know.
Make no mistake: I am perfectly content with soaking up some rays and watching the tide roll in. But at the same time, I’ve found that there are few better ways to clear your mind than running or biking.
They’re great ways to release pent-up stress and perfect if you want re-introduce some balance into your life. They’re also excellent means of coming up with new ideas. And yes, trust me, things that seemed oh-so-grim earlier can look very different — better! — after a good run or spin.
And as it happens, when you enjoy these pastimes, you look for challenges. Like a marathon. Or a bike ride through some seriously tough terrain.
Into the sun
Taking on this new challenge, I left Munich on Friday, July 13, at 10:25 AM, but it was not a bad omen. Fifteen minutes later, I was out of the city. An hour later, I caught my first glimpse of the majestic Alps. For now, they were just a distant goal, but it would not be too long before I fought my way up some calf-killing climbs.
The overall timing for my trip was good. After 10 days of April-like climate, the weather had finally turned. Summer came from the direction I was headed in: the south. It was sunny, but not too hot (well, not yet, at least).
The first part of the trek is relatively easy: a largely flat 60 kilometers through green plains and sleepy Munich suburbs, meaning I had plenty of time to enjoy nature and really get my mind off of the daily grind.
Heading toward Lake Tegernsee, it’s the final 10 kilometers that are really demanding. First they make you earn your dinner, and then you sleep like a baby. The trip to Austria can be done in one day, but looking back I’m glad that I planned an overnight stay for my trip. On a summer day, the posh little town of Rottach-Egern, on the southern tip of the lake, has the laid-back flair of a Mediterranean coastal town. It was the perfect place to catch my breath and get some rest. I would need it.
A run for the border
At 8:30 the next morning I was back on the road. The heat was already in the air, just a taste of what was to come later. Only 20 kilometers away from Austria, I was itching to hit the border — very much, actually. It was a major mental milestone on my trip.
“Biking to another country.” That’s always sounded cool to me.
But I spent the first hour or so just getting the lactic acid out of my legs. The day before had left its toll, and the sun was already merciless. Even the breathtaking scenery couldn’t distract me from those realities.
And then the climbs started. They were more frequent and steeper than those the day before, and most of them were on rough and slippery gravel.
In those situations, your excitement over the beauty of the Alps wanes temporarily. You curse those who thought up the bike route — and you curse yourself for packing so many unnecessary items in your saddlebag.
But the course’s designers had a treat in store after all, and it compensated for the earlier strain: The border crossing is a roaring five-kilometer descent, and I literally flew into Austria. The curvy stretch demands intense concentration, but it also provides some welcome rest for the legs and a chance to cool down.
The homestretch
Having arrived in Austria, my last major milestone was Achensee, Tyrole’s largest lake and a favorite among divers and sailors. I was really looking forward to seeing first-hand this turquoise-colored lake nestled between mighty mountains.
Sure enough, Achensee was all that and more, and I stopped every few kilometers to enjoy the scenery and take pictures. I blended in with the relaxed crowd of vacationers, then mobilized what little was left in the tank for the homestretch.
Another crisp climb and shortly after noon, after about nine-and-a-half hours in the saddle, I rolled into Jenbach, Austria.
As exhausting as the trip was, it was also the perfect getaway, just what the doctor ordered. I felt pride, fatigue — and the satisfaction of knowing that sometimes, the best way to decelerate is to accelerate.
